The Impulse Purchase That Sparked My Love Of Chronographs.

After a couple days into the Hawaiian trip, we decided to go to the mall. I caught sight of some watches displayed in jewelry store window, so naturally I had to go in for some browsing. This inevitably led me to an impulse buy. The jeweler, Na Hoku, had a large display in the center of the store with all sorts of “in house” watches – or watches with Na Hoku on the dial.

A chronograph with a sunburst brown dial and applied indices jumped right out at me. Despite its massive case size, which I think is 44mm or maybe even 45mm, it didn’t seem that big on my wrist (at the time anyways). It was also powered by a Swiss quartz movement, which I later found out it was a Ronda quartz movement.

I kept wearing the SKX for the rest of the trip, because I didn’t want to ruin the nice alligator strap that came attached to my newly acquired chronograph. When I got home, I did wear it quite a bit, but after a few months the battery died. It’s pretty much been sitting in its box ever since.

I still keep it around because of the memories it holds, however. There’s also a good chance it will soon be passed down to one of my younger family members as a gift.

My First Chronograph

The thing I loved most about the Na Hoku chronograph was playing around with the pushers. As weird as it sounds, I loved timing random things. I also loved resetting the central chronograph hands and watching it “rewind” all the way back to the twelve o’clock position.

This functions different than a mechanical chronograph, where the central chronograph hand “snaps back” into position. When I purchased my first Valjoux 7753-powered chronograph, it took me a little by surprise. I wasn’t expecting the central chrono hand to snap back (because I was used to the quartz chronograph’s way of resetting).

I’d always been a fan of Omega, and after realizing how cool chronographs were, this confirmed that my “grail” piece had to be a Speedmaster. There would be another chronograph purchase along the way, though.

Enter the Baume & Mercier Capeland

Fast forward about a year. After a big personal accomplishment, I finally decided to step up to a mechanical chronograph. That watch would be a Valjoux 7753-powered Capeland chronograph made by Baume & Mercier. It wasn’t technically my first “good watch”, but it was the first good watch that I purchased after careful research.

I knew that it could exist alongside a Speedmaster if I did end up obtaining one someday. The Capeland is an automatic chronograph with a white dial, which is quite the contrast from the black-dialed, manual-wound “Moonwatch”.

As I said in my review of the watch itself:

I’m still in love with the Capeland Chronograph after almost a decade of ownership, despite recently gravitating towards smaller, thinner watches as I’ve refined my taste over the years. I love pretty much all of the design elements of the watch itself; especially the way it can look and feel modern, but also subtly and seamlessly hint at design cues from the past, too.

Even though I loved my Capeland (and still do), I still really wanted a Speedmaster.

Grail Acquired: One Of The Most Iconic Chronographs

I was finally able to purchase a Speedmaster at the end of 2018. It was my biggest purchase yet, and came at a time when my life was changing quite a bit. I had a newborn at home, my first, and I was getting ready to start a new job in a new industry. I had recently purchased my first home. It was a time of “firsts”.

The Speedmaster isn’t quite as sentimental a watch as my Capeland chronograph, which I wore on my wedding day and on the day my son was born – but it’s still a very sentimental watch for me that I’ll never sell.

A 3 Watch Collection – Chronograph Style

I have all my bases covered when it comes to chronographs: a quartz, a manual wind, and an automatic. I still wear the Speedmaster probably more than any other watch during the colder months of the year, while the Capeland still gets brought out every now and again when I get the itch to wear it. All three watches have great memories associated with them. Each watch has some of my personal history embedded inside of it, too. I think that’s one of the best things about watch collecting.

The Merits Of The “No Date”

I like “no date” watches for two reasons. One, the lack of a date window keeps the symmetry of the dial in tact. It just looks better in a lot of cases. If Omega decided to jam a date window into the classic “moonwatch” dial – they’d be ruining a classic design.

I think the same could be said for the Rolex Explorer, or Tudor Black Bay. The same also goes for a classic dress watch, like the Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196P, for instance.

The second reason: I don’t have to set the date every time the watch dies. When I grab a “no date” watch that’s been sitting in my watch box unworn for awhile, I can just wind it up and set the time. That’s it, I’m done.

This is one of the reasons I recently dropped my search for a triple calendar watch. If I don’t wear it daily, it’s not just the time I’d need to reset. I’d have to set the month, day, date – and adjust a moonphase – every time the watch needs to be wound up. If I owned only one watch, this wouldn’t be an issue. I like the variety of owning multiple pieces in a collection, though.

When Dials With Date Windows Make Sense

If a watch isn’t an iconic “no date” design already, then I think date windows should actually be seen as a positive. I’m not talking about watches where the date window is awkwardly-placed and looks like an afterthought. I’m talking about the vast majority of watches where the date window really doesn’t look that bad, and doesn’t ruin the design.

The question of aesthetics comes into play here, too. How important are they to you? For me, I prefer a day and date on my official vacation watch – the Seiko SKX009 – because sometimes I forget what day it is when I’m on vacation. Maybe you have a better memory than me and don’t appreciate this feature as much as I do.

I also like the way the day wheel turns blue on Saturday and red on Sunday. Don’t get me wrong, a “no date” SKX would look really awesome, but the day and date complication is worth it in this case. I also like this functionality when it comes to my Seiko field watch.

Sticking with Seiko, I also love what they do with their date windows on their SARB models. Seiko adds a nice little detail on these models with a framed date window.

This incorporates the date window into the design, and tells you that Seiko put the date window there not as an afterthought, but as an intentional design decision.

I appreciate a nice framed date window at 3:00, and find the addition of a nicely-done date window a plus, not a negative. Date windows placed at 6:00 usually look much better to me as well. They just appear more symmetrical, whether framed or not.

Best Of Both Worlds: Dials With Date Windows That Blend Right In

The best designs, in my opinion, are those that integrate the date window so that it’s not even noticeable unless you’re really looking for it. It’s the best of both worlds. You get functionality and aesthetic appeal in one nice package.

The Oris Sixty-Five is a master-class in this type of design. The date window is there if I want to know the date, but it blends into the design so well that it almost looks like a “no date” model.

When brands color match the date wheel with the dial, it’s a win. A white date wheel on a black or dark blue dial sticks out like a sore thumb. Not so much when a brand takes the extra step to match up the colors.

Conclusion

Comments like “if only they dropped the date window” are common, and from an aesthetic point, make sense.

I find it better to have a tastefully done date window personally. The added functionality is worth it to me, and I find it’s one thing I miss when I’m wearing my Speedy Pro or Black Bay 41 during the work week. It’s definitely not a deal breaker, though. These watches are way too good looking for me to actually want to break up the design with an ugly date window at 3:00.

The Oris Sixty-Five, on the other hand, is perfection. The date window is there when I want it, but not noticeable enough to bother me. It’s the best of both worlds.

I’d also like to spend more time learning more about watchmaking history, as well as history behind individual brands, instead of obsessing over technical details. More history, less researching the merits of movements and cases sizes. In this post, I’d like to share some things that have definitely changed since I first started collecting.

Watch Collecting Paradigm Shift Number 1: Better, More Expensive Watches Aren’t Always More Enjoyable

When I was first starting out, my grail was always an Omega Speedmaster. Once I obtained said grail, what was next? Haute horology names seemed to be the answer. Patek, Vacheron, AP – maybe even a JLC or something from Glashutte Original.

Something funny happened along the way though. After “testing the waters” with some more complicated pieces, I realized that what I really enjoy is more simple tool watches. Divers, field watches – maybe a chronograph or two. That’s my wheel house. There’s plenty of nice options in the upper-mid range from brands like Omega, IWC, Breitling, and Tudor – just to name a few.

Patek Phillipe charges $130 just for a battery change! It’ll run you about $900 to service a simple 3 hander, and over $2,000 for a more complicated piece.

Do I still aspire to own a Patek one day? Honestly, yes. But “better” isn’t always better, and I sense that I enjoy classic, easy to maintain tool watches much more than I’d enjoy super high-end watches that I used to dream about. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that.

Watch Collecting Paradigm Shift Number 2: “Upgrades” Aren’t Always Better

Everyone nowadays wants an exclusive, in-house movement. Here’s the thing though. Servicing is not only expensive, it can be anxiety-inducing. From my experience, watches don’t always come back the same after service. That’s also assuming you can still get parts. In-house movements are generally seen as an “upgrade”, but are they really?

What I’m saying is irrelevant if you’re a flipper of watches, or sell them right before they need a service. I’m usually a “buy and holder” with my watches, though, so longevity and overall cost of ownership are big drivers in my decision making process.

After owning a watch for about a year, I’ve usually accumulated enough memories wearing it that I’ll never want to sell it (because of sentimental reasons). A watch with a tried-and-tested ETA2824 or Valjoux7750 might be a little boring, but I’ll be able to have these watches serviced by pretty much any competent watchmaker locally.

Parts should also be widely available for a long time. Probably for the rest of my life. Can I have that same level of confidence in some esoteric in-house movement that may not exist in a decade? Probably not.

I can send my Speedmaster or my Tudor Black Bay 41 to pretty much any watchmaker that’s worth a salt for service, at a reasonable price, and get the watch back on wrist within a few weeks, or maybe a month at most. This makes these watches more enjoyable for me personally than a handmade, highly-complicated haute horology masterpiece that requires a very specific skillset (and much more money) to service.

Watch Collecting Paradigm Shift Number 3: Closed Casebacks Can Be Better Than Exhibition Casebacks

This is a more recent epiphany of mine. I was looking at all my watches, and realized almost every single one has a closed caseback. I didn’t even do this on purpose, it just happened to be that the watches I’ve favored shun exhibition casebacks.

This is a sharp transition to when I was first starting out. I insisted on see-through casebacks, because why wouldn’t I want to see the mechanical movement ticking away inside? It didn’t matter if it was an entry-level Seiko 5 with a 7S26 or a nicely decorated handwound movement. I felt if I wasn’t getting the exhibition caseback, I was getting cheated.

Now, I actually prefer closed casebacks, especially on tool watches. Obviously I’d make an exception for say, a manual wound Patek Phillipe dress watch, but that would be an exception to the rule.

Here’s my logic. Once you’ve seen an automatic movement, they all kind of look the same, and usually the rotor is blocking the good stuff anyways. You look at the dial 99% of the time anyways, since that’s what you see on wrist. Even if the movement is nicely decorated, it just adds another level of anxiety to the whole servicing experience, because there’s the added risk the watchmaker accidentally leaves a mark on the movement (a good watchmaker shouldn’t do this, but mistakes happen).

I’ve learned to appreciate a nicely done caseback, and actually prefer them over exhibition casebacks at this point. I also favor tool watches, so I’m sure that if I owned more manual-wound dress watches I’d have a different opinion.

Conclusion

Since I first started collecting in 2012, I’ve definitely shifted my perspective on many things over the years. This list included my personal paradigm shifts, and maybe you don’t agree with some of the things I’ve said. That’s okay. Watch collecting is such a personal thing, and I think everyone will express themselves differently through their preferences and choices. This usually ends up being reflected in their watch collection, which I think is one of the cooler things about this hobby.

Team Applied Indices

I actually love the look of nicely done applied indices. Especially if they’re deep and stand tall on the dial. This gives the dial a really cool three dimensional look. It also allows the indices to play with light and reflections at all different kinds of angles.

Place them on top of an elaborately decorated dial, like the sunburst, guilloche dial of my Seiko SARB065 “Cocktail Time” – and I think you have a winning combination. They also look great on complex and detailed dials, such as the IWC Mark XVI Spitfire.

To be honest, printed indices would have looked good here, too, and made the watch more “toolish”. Instead, the deeply applied Arabic numerals add dimension to the dial, enough to make it a very versatile piece that I think could double as a dress watch in a pinch.

On more classically-styled dials, without all the fancy guilloche and silver-plating, applied indices can really make the watch. The SARB035’s dial is really nice, but I think that printed indices would have made the watch boring and flat. With the nicely finished applied indices (and applied SEIKO logo), it adds visual interest and compliments the dial nicely. It adds that extra “something” that makes the SARB035 a classic, in my opinion.

Team Printed Indices

As much as I’m a fan of applied indices and markers, sometimes it’s better to keep it simple. I think my Hamilton Khaki Field would look ridiculous with applied indices. The simple printing speaks to the basic, military-inspired design of the watch.

Same goes for another classic tool watch – the Omega Speedmaster Professional. It’s an iconic design, and there’s a reason that the dial hasn’t been “upgraded” with applied indices (although I wouldn’t mind an unobtrusively applied Omega logo like the new sapphire models have).

Applied indices also leave room for error. Misalignment issues, even if barely noticeable, are probably way more common with applied indices than they are with simple printed dials. My Certina DS Powermatic 80 had slightly misaligned indices, and it always drove me crazy.

Another example where I favor printed markers is on the Oris Sixty-Five. The printed indices are lumed, and it looks really great in low light situations. I like this dial configuration much more than the other Oris Sixty-Five models with applied, but simpler indices and markers. This is a personal opinion, but I’m sticking to it.

The Third Option: A Happy Medium Between Printed And Applied Indices

There’s also another option, which is stamped indices. I owned a Baume & Mercier Classima with stamped indices, which was actually very nice. you get the three-dimensional look of applied indices, without the inherent possibility of misalignment issues. While some might consider stamped dials a cost-cutting move, or even cheap, I think it’s kind of the best of both worlds.

The Breitling Superocean 42 is a dive watch that I admire quite a bit, and I think the stamped markers look awesome. I love the white dial version of this watch. The stamped, raised blue markers really pop against the stark white dial. There’s nothing cheap looking about it.

Conclusion

When it comes to applied markers vs printed ones, I think it comes down to the style of watch. Neither one is particularly “better” or more premium. I think there’s a perception that applied indices and markers are more luxurious, but many cheaper watches have applied indices, and in many cases, printed indices just look better from a design perspective.

Printed markers don’t usually suffer from misalignment issues like applied indices can, but even that’s not a rule set in stone. If you’ve ever owned a Seiko diver, you know what I’m talking about. The iconic Seiko SKX dive watches almost always have misalignment issues, despite a printed dial.

If I bought an SKX that didn’t have misalignment issues, I might even think that it was a fake. That’s how common an issue it is. My Seiko Samurai also has minor misalignment issues, despite a higher price tag and applied indices, so at the end of the day, it’s probably just a Seiko thing.

Luckily I’m fortunate to be able to own multiple watches as part of a collection, so I can enjoy a mixture of watches with both applied and printed indices. I enjoy wearing them all, applied or printed.

1.) Service Costs Matter

When I first started purchasing watches, I naively didn’t even know they needed to be serviced. I just thought they’d run forever, and being mechanical, they’d never need a new battery. Turns out watches do need to be maintained, and it’s expensive. It also gets increasingly more expensive the more expensive the name on the dial gets.

Want a watch with complication beyond just a simple date window? How about a chronograph? You’ll most likely be paying even more in service costs. The more complicated, the higher the cost of ownership. When I buy a watch now, I try to factor in cost of ownership overall during the life of the watch (or at least the time I own it), just as much as the initial price tag.

Buying a pre-owned watch might appear to be much, much cheaper, but if you’re buying a watch that needs service (or worse, one that has major mechanical issues and needs replacement parts) – that pre-owned watch from eBay might not really be that cheap.

2.) Case Size Doesn’t

While service costs definitely matter a lot if you plan to keep your watch for the long-term, case sizes don’t matter as much, if at all. The below three watches are both quoted as 42mm on paper:

I can tell you this, though. Despite sharing the same case size, the Baume & Mercier Capeland looks and wears significantly larger than the Omega Speedmaster and the Seiko SKX009. You can blame this on multiple factors:

1.) The Capeland has a white dial. White dials tend to wear larger than darker dial watches.

2.) The Capeland basically has no bezel. This makes the dial look much larger, which also makes the watch appear much larger on wrist.

3.) The lug-to-lug (arguably a more important metric for how a watch will wear than case size) is only 46mm on the SKX009, while it’s pushing past 50mm for the Baume & Mercier. Larger lug-to-lug = larger wrist presence.

4.) Thickness matters: The Capeland is over 15mm thick, and wears just as thick as its quoted size.

5.) Case shape matters: The Speedmaster has a much slimmer mid-case, and the SKX has a rounded side-case. These are two methods that make them wear much slimmer and svelte than the Capeland chrono with its slab-sided case.

3.) When Watch Collecting: Buy The Watch, Not The Brand

I fell victim to this one early on. I thought I only liked Omega watches, and that one day I’d have a watch box full of them. I’m sure many people (and collectors) think this way. I’ve come to realize that I actually like having some brand diversity in my life.

At this point, I try to own only one model from a brand (although rules are meant to be broken, which is why I used the word “try”).

An exception to this is made for Seiko watches, which are like potato chips – you can’t seem to have just one. I’d say that I pretty much enjoy wearing my entry-level Seikos just as much as my Speedy Pro as well.

If you disagree with this observation, that’s perfectly understandable. This is more of a personal preference. At the end of the day, though, if you like a watch, buy the watch – forget about the name on the dial.

4.) And Finally: In-House Movements Can Be Overrated

Notice I didn’t say in-house movements are overrated? They certainly can be, though. Give me an ETA 2892 or Valjoux 7750 over a random, unproven in-house movement any day. Also, there’s something to be said about a movement that’s been tried-and-true for decades, and used by pretty much every major brand out there.

If you’re Seiko or Rolex, I get it. Your in-house movements are bulletproof and it makes sense. Otherwise, in-house movements can cost more to service (see observation 1), and getting parts might not be as easy to source by your neighborhood watchmaker (especially as time goes on).

I went through a snobbish phase were I thought only watches with in-house movements were the best-of-the best. I also wondered why anyone would ever pay up for a watch from a brand like IWC when its watches are powered by the same ETA movements found in cheaper, “entry-level” brands.

Once you hold the IWC in hand, side by side with the more entry-level piece with the “same” entry-level movement – you’ll know where all that extra money goes (usually its pretty apparent in the finishing). A watch is way, way more than just the movement.

Wrapping Things Up: A Decade Of Watch Collecting

Collecting watches has been a very rewarding hobby so far. I’ve gotten to the point where I’ve developed a sense of what I like – but it took a lot of buying and selling to get there. I’m content with what I have at the start of 2022, but the hunt for the next watch is often more fun than actually owning it. Currently, I’m thinking my next target will probably be a triple calendar watch.

Okay, so it wasn’t technically my first “good watch” – I owned a Hamilton Jazzmaster before this watch. But it was the first good watch that I purchased after careful research to make sure I actually wanted it (versus the Jazzmaster Open Heart, which I purchased on a whim). My “grail” at this time, as well as ever since I can remember, was an Omega Speedmaster, and I always loved the look of chronographs.

Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph

I decided my first big purchase would be a chronograph, but one that would be able to exist alongside a Speedmaster if I did end up obtaining one someday. An automatic chronograph with a white dial fit the bill. Plus, this model (reference 10061) also comes with a telemeter for measuring distance, along with the more common tachymeter for measuring speed. I thought this would be cool (even if it’s something I’d never actually use). The white dial also appealed to me, because it meant that the white date window wouldn’t stick out like a sore thumb, either.

I also found the idea of owning a Valjoux 7750 appealing (or in the case of my Capeland chrono, a 7753 – which mostly just means the subdials are arranged in a different layout than the traditional 7750 where they’re placed at 12, 9, and 6). Some have even gone so far as to call it the world’s greatest chronograph movement by far. Sure, it’s a pretty common movement and it’s not a column wheel chronograph movement, but there’s a reason pretty much every brand has utilized it at some point (or still does).

I still enjoy owning this watch, and I’m actually a fan of the infamous “rotor-wobble” that the Valjoux 7750-based movements are known for.

This one’s definitely in the “never sell” bucket, not only because it was my first true love, but also because it was my wedding watch, as well as the watch I wore in the hospital for the birth of my first child. I must admit, I don’t wear it as often as I used to though, because it’s a big, heavy watch, and my tastes have gravitated towards slimmer watches in general. I’ll get around to reviewing this one eventually.

Oris Diver’s Sixty-Five

I already posted an in-depth review of this watch here. It’s also probably my favorite watch that I own overall. My wife gifted me the watch on our wedding day, complete with the date and our initials engraved on the back.

This is my daily wearer in the summer, and I have a hard time taking it off once I put it on my wrist, especially when it’s on its bracelet. It’s just a great watch, and I could see it being my “only watch” if I could only keep one.

Omega Speedmaster Professional

This one was my grail watch, and I told myself it would be my last watch once I finally got my grubby hands on one. Jokes on me. It definitively wasn’t my last, but it’s still one of my favorites.

The Speedmaster is my daily wearer in colder months. I did purchase a new 3861 bracelet for it, but I’m of the opinion that it looks best on straps. The Speedmaster is a certified strap monster, so pretty much any straps will look good – I’ve even tried wearing it on a tropic strap. I always seem to come back to the oem alligator strap, however, and that’s what I’m wearing it on now.

IWC Mark XVI Spitfire

I always thought IWC was a cool brand, and I love its history. The Mark series watches specifically always interested me. Once I had the Speedmaster, I kind of dismissed the Mark series because I thought a black-dialed tool watch would be too repetitive. That was before I first laid eyes on the Mark XVI Spitfire, though. I knew this one was right up m alley pretty much instantly when I came across it randomly on a watch forum. It took time to find one in decent condition for the right price, but it was well worth the wait.

I already reviewed this watch in-depth here, and I still think it’s one of the most unique fliegers money can buy. The dial on this watch is truly special.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

I wanted a field watch to round things out, and the Hamilton Khaki Field fit the bill. I thought that it might end up being a “stepping stone” until I upgraded to a Tudor Ranger, but after owning the watch since October – that’s not the case anymore. This one’s a keeper.

I already had black and white dial watches at this point, so I decided to go with something a little different. I chose the brown “tropical dial” version with tan NATO, and I’m glad I did. The dial on this watch is great, and it really turns chocolatey-brown in the sun. It also goes great with the coloring of the faux-lume. My previous review of this watch can be read here.

Wrapping up the “core” collection, next I’ll move on to my Seikos.

Seiko SKX009J

I’ll start with the classic SKX, which was my first dive watch. I chose it because I wanted a Pepsi bezel diver, and this one wouldn’t break the bank. I never considered buying a dive watch until a trip to Hawaii.

The SKX at the time was cheap, robust, and well-regarded – so I bought one and never looked back. It’s still one of my “go-to” watches if I know I’ll be swimming in a pool, the ocean, or maybe even a river. It’s just a great low maintenance, dyed-in-the-wool tool watch that’s easy to wear – especially in summer.

Seiko SRPB55 “Samurai”

I bought this one as an upgrade to my SKX, but I somehow managed to keep the SKX as well. I love the bezel on this one – it’s the same coloring as a can of Guinness.

The gunmetal case and sharp angles are unique, which is what initially caught my attention. A more in-depth review can be read here. Despite the 44mm case, the short lug-to-lug allow the watch to wear much better than the paper specs would suggest.

Seiko 5 Sports SNZG

This was my first field watch, and I still think is one of the best “starter watches” money can buy. The printing on the dial is crisp, and the applied Seiko logo looks great

I usually grab my Khaki Field when I go hiking now, but this watch still gets wrist time every now and then. It’s also got twice the water resistance of the Hamilton – coming in at 100m. I struggle to find a better value field watch, considering I only paid a little over $100 for this one. The only odd feature of this watch is the fact it doesn’t “hack”. Kind of strange for a military inspired watch, but then again, the 7S26 movement powering the watch doesn’t have hacking capabilities.

Seiko SARB065 “Cocktail Time”

I recently re-acquired a NOS example of this watch (the serial number indicates a production date of 2017). I flipped this watch awhile back before it was discontinued, missed it, and then thought I blew it when prices shot up. When I was able to grab a new one at a reasonable price, I had to jump on it.

I’m currently wearing it on a navy ColaReb strap, which I think suits the watch’s ice-blue dial. A longer review of the watch can be read here.

Seiko SARB035

I recently reviewed this watch, which is technically my wife’s. This is one of the most wearable watches I’ve ever come across, the case dimensions are perfect.

I love the dial and applied indices on this watch, and the subtle sheen of sunburst on the cream dial is really great. It’s a shame that it’s been discontinued, in my opinion.

Oris Big Crown

This is my wife’s watch that I gave her on our wedding day, s we both had an Oris on our wrist on our honeymoon in Europe.

It’s served her well, and has 100m water resistance, as well as a screw-down crown. The dial is an almost enamel like white, with small diamond markers at the edge of the dial, and the lack of the date keeps the overall symmetry intact. I like the knurled bezel as well.

The Pocket Watch Collection

My collection of pocket watches is a simple three watch collection. It consists of watches from Hamilton, Waltham, and Omega.

I’d like to maybe add an Elgin one day, and possibly a stop watch from Heuer or Minerva. For now, this is it though. I love pocket watches, but because I can’t really wear them on my wrist, acquiring more really isn’t a top priority.

Wrapping Up My State Of The Collection, And What’s Next

Heading into 2022, I’m pretty content with what I have. If I was going to add a new watch in 2022, it would be a triple calendar – but that’s a big if. A Baume and Mercier Clifton Complete Calendar would be nice (a triple calendar with moonphase complication), but I think I’m actually done adding new pieces for awhile (at least that’s what I tell myself). I’m thinking 2022 will be a year more focused on learning more about watchmaking history, which is a journey that I plan to share along the way with some new posts (and cool vintage ads, of course). Happy New Year everyone!

American Pocket Watches – The Most Bang For Your Buck

I love American pocket watches, because they’re usually highly-finished and won’t break the bank. I reviewed two of my personal favorites in the below video – including the heirloom Hamilton pocket watch I’ve already written about previously.

I typically find myself browsing for American pocket watches from Waltham, Illinois, Hamilton, and Elgin. They’re just so cool. The only thing that really stops me from adding more of them to my collection is the fact I can’t wear them on my wrist.

Waltham introduced the system of interchangeable parts to the watch industry. This innovative system allowed it to become one of the first watchmakers in the world to mass produce a complete watch all by itself. This also allowed it to churn out quality watches at affordable prices. Florentine Ariosto Jones (an American) took the American watchmaking system originally established by Waltham and ran with it. He moved to Switzerland and founded IWC in Schaffhausen.

Before the Quartz Crisis, and even before the rise in popularity of Swiss brands in the US, American watchmaking was a powerhouse industry. Some brands like Hamilton are obviously still around and popular, but under Swiss ownership.

Swiss Pocket Watches Are Cool, Too

The third pocket watch in my stable is actually Swiss – an Omega that was gifted to me by my wife’s family. This one came all the way from Prague.

This Omega has a cool 24 hour dial, which is also done in enamel. I like the idea of owning an Omega pocket watch specifically, because the company actually took the modern name “OMEGA” from its 19-ligne ‘Omega’ calibre – a pocket watch movement – that it released in 1894. Prior to the release of this movement, the company was called Louis Brandt & Frère. The pocket watch is literally foundational to Omega’s history and brand, therefore.

Like the movements produced by the American-watchmaker Waltham, this “Omega” caliber utilized interchangeable parts, and was one of the first Swiss movements produced on a modern production line. This was revolutionary for the company and the Swiss industry, as it not only allowed for mass production of the movement itself, but it also meant wide availability and access to parts, making the repair and servicing of movements feasible on a global scale.

Wrapping Things Up

Pocket watches are really great for what they are, and they’re jam-packed with horological history. For a few hundred Dollars, you can score a pretty sweet Waltham pocket watch. You can hold a piece of watchmaking history in your hands, produced by a company that introduced the world to the American watchmaking system.

This led to the creation of one of the most celebrated brands in the world, IWC. It’s also probable that it sparked the flames for Omega’s first mass-produced movement (as well as its name). This is why I think pocket watches should get more love from the watch community as a whole. On the bright-side, however, I think that the lack of interest makes these watches undervalued (in a day and age where wristwatches are getting increasingly expensive).

History Of The Hack Watch

Most watches nowadays incorporate hacking (aka a stop-seconds feature) – even the cheapest of quartz watches. This wasn’t always the case, however. My pocket watches don’t hack, for instance, but they’re also around a hundred years old (or older).The ability to hack a watch didn’t really become common until around WW2, when it was specifically requested as a feature in military watches. The ability to stop the seconds hand and synchronize coordinated military actions was critical.

So, Do All Modern Watches Hack?

Not necessarily. Although most modern Seiko 5 watches are now utilizing the 4R series movements that offer hacking, but before this, the trust 7S26 movement was often the “go-to” choice. My Seiko 5 Military (SNZG15) is powered by the 7S26 movement, and it doesn’t hack. Neither does my trust Seiko SKX009.

I paid only about $150 bucks for each of these Seiko watches, so maybe it’s a function of price? Once again, not necessarily. The iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional, powered by Omega’s 1861 chronograph movement, doesn’t hack. You read that right. A watch that retails for $5,000 to $6,000 doesn’t have the simple ability to stop the seconds hand from moving when the crown is pulled out to set the time.

There Are Options For Those Non-Hacking Watches, However…

If you’re like me, and like to synchronize your watch to the exact second when you’re setting the time, then you may be thinking a non-hacking watch might be a deal-breaker. But before you disregard that Speedmaster or Seiko SKX you’ve been eyeing, know that there is a solution to your problems. It’s called back-hacking, and it allows you to kinds, sorta “hack” the watch, just in a different way.

Although it’s probably not great for the long-term health of your watches movement if you do it all the time, or even make the seconds hand run backwards, it does allow you to accurately set the time to the second.

Wrapping Things Up

Hacking is a pretty common feature today, but it wasn’t always. Originally brought to provenance by the military and the need for precision, the ability to hack a watch is a nice feature to have, but not absolutely necessary. If your watch doesn’t hack, you can always “back hack”. The guys who first set foot on the moon didn’t need hacking to get the job done after all. If you’re interested in a new Speedmaster, however, the new co-axial 3861 movements finally provide Moonwatch fans with this feature. Seiko’s entry-level mechanical watches also provide hacking nowadays. So it seems that the lack of a stop-seconds feature on a modern wristwatch is all but extinct anyways.

An Interesting Time And Place 

April 18, 1906 was the day one of the most significant earthquakes in US history struck. It struck in California at 5:12 AM. The strong shaking only lasted about 45 to 60 seconds, but it was felt from southern Oregon, all the way to south of Los Angeles, and inland as far as central Nevada. 

The quake is probably most remembered as the root cause behind the fire it sparked in San Francisco. Perhaps this is why the quake is often referred to as the “San Francisco Earthquake”, even though shaking damage was just as great in many other places along the fault rupture. Most of the fatalities related to the quake also occurred in San Francisco as well. 

National archives record an estimated 3,000 deaths in the city related to the quake and subsequent fires, which destroyed nearly 500 city blocks and left half of the city’s population (roughly 400,000 residents at the time) homeless. It’s still considered one of the worst natural disasters in U.S. history. Despite all this, my son’s Great-Great-Great Grandparents were married in this city a short time after. 

The Stock Market Crash of 1907

It’s speculated that the San Francisco natural disaster also contributed greatly to the financial panic of 1907. Damage from the earthquake and fire was estimated to be between $350- $500 million, equating to 1.3% to 1.8% of U. S. GNP in 1906. With the collapse of the Knickerbocker Trust Company in New York, world stock markets crashed in October of 1907. The Panic of 1907 led to the creation of the Federal Reserve System, which was designed to provide for an elastic currency and to act as a lender-of-last resort.    

If you’re interested in further reading, The Panic of 1907: Lessons Learned from the Market’s Perfect Storm by Robert F. Bruner and Sean D. Carr is a good source. From what I recall (it’s been awhile since I’ve read it), a large part of the book covers when J.P. Morgan – the J.P. Morgan, not the bank – basically orchestrated a bail-out to get the gears turning again and provide liquidity to the stock market and overall economy. The intricacies of the Panic of 1907 is beyond the scope of this article, but it’s interesting how a natural disaster in San Francisco contributed to the creation of the modern Federal Reserve System and FDIC.

Back To The Gold Watch

As seen in the below pictures, the watch is in mint condition. Much of this is likely due to the watch being well taken care of all of these years, but I think the quality of the watch is also a main factor. A gorgeous enamel dial doesn’t fade as easily as a modern watch dial. Heat-blued steel hands prevent corrosion, maintaining their luster for longer.

The movement, recently serviced, still runs great and looks clean. It’s a grade 978 which dates to 1918 based on its serial number, and is “lever set”. Basically, the crystal has to be unscrewed and you have to pull out a small lever to set the time. I must admit, this was pretty confusing to figure out at first.

The finishing on the movement itself is beautiful, and as pointed out by Michael Maddan at Watchuseek.com, the nickel plates are decorated using a process called Damaskeening, something Hamilton was known for at the time. In reference to the watch, he also said something that I’d like to quote here:

My guess is that most folks have never seen anything like this, and find it difficult to believe that they were once in wide-spread use, as affordable–yet elegant–well-made timepieces from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA.

Think about it, a hand-decorated movement with a swan-neck regulator. A real enamel dial and temperature blued-hands in a gold case. How much would that cost today? I’m guessing a lot more than this watch originally cost back in the day, even after adjusting for inflation. And it was all made in America, when the American watchmaking industry was a powerhouse.

An International, Non-Sectarian Fraternal Order

The watch chain has an interesting symbol attached to it, which led me to still more history. The symbol is related to the Order of Knights of Pythias.

The Order of Knights of Pythias was established in 1864 in Washinton, DC by Justus H. Rathbone and is still around today. Interestingly, it was the first fraternal order to be chartered by an Act of Congress. This was after careful scrutiny by Abraham Lincoln, who was President at that time. It was created in part to help heal the wounds caused by the Civil War.

The Order follows three distinguishing principles, Friendship, Charity and Benevolence, and “bases its lessons and builds its ritual largely on the familiar story of the friendship of Damon and Pythias”. It has over 2,000 lodges and over 50,000 members around the world, although this is data as of 2003. 

Wrapping Things Up

My son, still a toddler, won’t be gifted the watch officially until he’s a little older – or at least until he’s grown out of the habit of throwing things down the stairs and laughing uncontrollably after. The watch itself isn’t just a beautiful object to admire, it’s embedded with history.

That’s one of the great things about watches, and specifically heirloom watches that are passed down through the generations. They hold the history of our ancestors, and provide a way for us to connect with them in ways we otherwise never would have. Considering the many interesting times in history that the watch has made it through, it’s a minor miracle that it’s not only still in the family, but in such pristine condition. 

Reason 1: Baume & Mercier is Old, Like Really Old

Baume & Mercier was founded in 1830 – a full 75 years before Rolex, 14 years before Breitling, 51 years before Seiko, and 45 years before Audemars Piguet. IWC would be founded 39 years later, while Longines would be founded only 2 years after. Patek Philippe would be founded 9 years after B&M. Let’s just say that the brand is very old.

Sure, there’s ancient companies like Vacheron Constantin and Blancpain (both founded in the 1700’s), but few brands are older than Baume & Mercier. It’s the sixth or seventh oldest continuously operating watch brand in the world, depending on who you ask.

The company, like brands such as Vacheron and IWC, is currently owned by Richemont group. It was originally purchased by Piaget in 1964, and you can find B&M watches from this period with Piaget movements. Piaget itself was then swallowed up by Cartier in 1988, which brought Baume & Mercier under Cartier ownership as well.

Perhaps this is why some watch aficionados think of B&M as more of a jewelry watch, or “fashion brand”. It also went through a period of producing only quartz watches, which probably adds to this (completely unfounded, in my opinion) stigma.

In 1993, the Vendôme group acquired Cartier, Piaget, and Baume & Mercier, and this eventually turned into what we now know today as the Richemont Group. Before being acquired by Cartier, Baume & Mercier was actually one of the first brands to launch a steel sports watch as well.

Reason 2: It Helped Pioneer The Steel Sports Watch

The Riviera was launched in 1973, which was Baume & Mercier’s first steel sports watch. It featured an integrated bracelet as well. B&M launched it just one year after the game-changing, Gerald Genta-designed Royal Oak was released by Audemars Piguet. Patek Philippe didn’t release the Nautilus until 1976.

B&M recently relaunched the Riviera line, which seems to be getting mixed reviews in the comment sections of watch blogs and online publications, and some downright hate on watch forums. I think this is misplaced. There’s a perception that this is a desperate move for a dying brand taking a “me too” approach to capitalize from the steel sports watch craze, and especially the Gerald Genta-designed steel sports watch craze. As previously mentioned, however, the Riviera wasn’t the first, but it was a close second to the Royal Oak; so of all the brands creating “homages” to steel sports watches with integrated bracelets right now – B&M has a legitimate claim from its actual heritage.

After pitching only the twentieth perfect game in MLB history, Roy Halladay commissioned 60 B&M Rivieras for his teammates. I guess that’s not enough to make the Riviera iconic, but it’s a cool story. The watch must be good though, because at least one of his teammates apparently still wears his.

Tissot released its very Genta-esque, 1970’s PRX model, which appears to be well-loved so far, so I don’t get the dislike for Baume & Mercier releasing an update to one of its defining models. I think that the fact B&M discontinued it in the first place was a mistake, however. Despite this, not all is lost, as the company’s relatively new in-house movements may be able to spark a flame and propel the brand forward.

Reason 3: Interesting Complications and In-House Movements At Affordable Prices

The Baumatic movement was launched in a new series of watches in 2018. Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic housed the brand’s first in-house movement, sporting 5 days of power reserve, a silicone hairspring (interestingly enough, B&M was the first Richemont brand to incorporate this technology, before having to discontinue its use because of patent issues), and a ten-year service interval. All this for under $3,000, and that’s not considering the fat discount you could get at the time in the grey market. The Clifton Baumatic was originally launched as a dress watch, lacking any frills other than time and date, but it’s since been expanded to include complications such as a moon phase.

I think this is where Baume & Mercier shines. Delivering value with interesting complications at affordable prices. Even before the in-house movements were launched, B&M was offering these complications that are generally found in watches five to ten times the price.

Conclusion

Today, I think the brand’s primary focus on dress watches, coupled with its past of producing only quartz watches, is likely what hurts its image today. Steel watches are all the rage right now, and unlike many iconic brands – Baume & Mercier doesn’t have a Submariner or Speedmaster. There’s no Navitimer or even a Portuguese. When you think of Baume & Mercier, it unfortunately doesn’t have that iconic piece in its collection that defines it. This is ironic, considering its Riviera model (which seems like a “safe” type of watch to launch today), was innovative in the early seventies, and was only the second watch of its kind – right behind the iconic Royal Oak.

Perhaps a successful relaunch of the Riviera will help alleviate some of the unfounded negative image of the brand as “boring”, or even as a “fashion” brand, as I see it described as far too often on watch forums. This is a real brand with real heritage. The brand should get more respect than it does, but it’s hard when it’s positioned as Richemont’s “entry-level” brand and its reputation, no matter how unfounded and unfair, precedes it.

Know more about Baume & Mercier and want to add to the discussion? Please post a comment below!