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While casually browsing through watch forums, I’ve picked up on something. It seems that a lot of dyed-in-the-wool watch enthusiasts despise dials with date windows. While I get why in some cases, in others, I think date windows are over-hated. A vintage-inspired chronograph, based off of a design from the 1940s, will probably look funny with a date window sandwiched in-between 3:00 and 4:00. But what about a watch worn daily to work?
The Merits Of The “No Date”
I like “no date” watches for two reasons. One, the lack of a date window keeps the symmetry of the dial in tact. It just looks better in a lot of cases. If Omega decided to jam a date window into the classic “moonwatch” dial – they’d be ruining a classic design.
I think the same could be said for the Rolex Explorer, or Tudor Black Bay. The same also goes for a classic dress watch, like the Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196P, for instance.
The second reason: I don’t have to set the date every time the watch dies. When I grab a “no date” watch that’s been sitting in my watch box unworn for awhile, I can just wind it up and set the time. That’s it, I’m done.
This is one of the reasons I recently dropped my search for a triple calendar watch. If I don’t wear it daily, it’s not just the time I’d need to reset. I’d have to set the month, day, date – and adjust a moonphase – every time the watch needs to be wound up. If I owned only one watch, this wouldn’t be an issue. I like the variety of owning multiple pieces in a collection, though.
When Dials With Date Windows Make Sense
If a watch isn’t an iconic “no date” design already, then I think date windows should actually be seen as a positive. I’m not talking about watches where the date window is awkwardly-placed and looks like an afterthought. I’m talking about the vast majority of watches where the date window really doesn’t look that bad, and doesn’t ruin the design.
The question of aesthetics comes into play here, too. How important are they to you? For me, I prefer a day and date on my official vacation watch – the Seiko SKX009 – because sometimes I forget what day it is when I’m on vacation. Maybe you have a better memory than me and don’t appreciate this feature as much as I do.
I also like the way the day wheel turns blue on Saturday and red on Sunday. Don’t get me wrong, a “no date” SKX would look really awesome, but the day and date complication is worth it in this case. I also like this functionality when it comes to my Seiko field watch.
Sticking with Seiko, I also love what they do with their date windows on their SARB models. Seiko adds a nice little detail on these models with a framed date window.
This incorporates the date window into the design, and tells you that Seiko put the date window there not as an afterthought, but as an intentional design decision.
I appreciate a nice framed date window at 3:00, and find the addition of a nicely-done date window a plus, not a negative. Date windows placed at 6:00 usually look much better to me as well. They just appear more symmetrical, whether framed or not.
Best Of Both Worlds: Dials With Date Windows That Blend Right In
The best designs, in my opinion, are those that integrate the date window so that it’s not even noticeable unless you’re really looking for it. It’s the best of both worlds. You get functionality and aesthetic appeal in one nice package.
The Oris Sixty-Five is a master-class in this type of design. The date window is there if I want to know the date, but it blends into the design so well that it almost looks like a “no date” model.
When brands color match the date wheel with the dial, it’s a win. A white date wheel on a black or dark blue dial sticks out like a sore thumb. Not so much when a brand takes the extra step to match up the colors.
Conclusion
Comments like “if only they dropped the date window” are common, and from an aesthetic point, make sense.
I find it better to have a tastefully done date window personally. The added functionality is worth it to me, and I find it’s one thing I miss when I’m wearing my Speedy Pro or Black Bay 41 during the work week. It’s definitely not a deal breaker, though. These watches are way too good looking for me to actually want to break up the design with an ugly date window at 3:00.
The Oris Sixty-Five, on the other hand, is perfection. The date window is there when I want it, but not noticeable enough to bother me. It’s the best of both worlds.