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The Seiko SKX009 was my very first dive watch, and I still wear one to this day. It’s still my go-to summer watch if I’m hitting the river, beach, or an occasional dip in a swimming pool.
It was a “forum favorite” when I was looking for my first diver to accompany me on a trip to Maui over a decade ago, but it was also a lot cheaper. After another holiday where it was my sole watch for the week (not in Hawaii this time, unfortunately), I figured I’d write up a review.
The Seiko SKX009: A Classic Dive Watch
I’ll admit, The SKX isn’t the nicest watch out there, it’s actually got a lot of flaws. For what the SKX lacks in features, however, it makes up for in charm and durability. The SKX series dive watches are battle-tested and as close to indestructible as you can get with a mechanical watch.
The chapter rings are usually misaligned on these watches and the bezel action is spotty (mine slips counter-clockwise in certain positions, giving me an added “feature” of a slightly bidirectional bezel). It doesn’t “hack”, and it sports an outdated aluminum bezel insert (as opposed to more modern ceramic).
I personally like the look of faded bezels, so the aluminum insert is a positive, not a negative in my book. Ceramic is nice and doesn’t fade, but you can give me a classic aluminum bezel over a shiny ceramic, modern dive watch bezel any day.
The SKX’s matte navy dial is extremely legible, especially in combination with the contrasting white markers. Filled with Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite, they blaze green even in broad daylight sometimes. The lume on this watch is better than many divers costing many multiples of the SKX’s price.
Despite its misgivings, I get a similar feeling wearing this watch that I get from my Speedmaster (which also doesn’t hack, interestingly enough). Like the Speedy Pro, the Seiko SKX009 feels like a genuine tool watch – one made before the Quartz Crisis and modern computers. The SKX was introduced in 1996, not the 1960s, but it still has that rugged, old-school tool watch charm.
A Classic Seiko Dive Watch
The Seiko SKX009 that I own is the “J” model, which really just means it says “Made In Japan” on the dial, and also has the extra “21 jewels” line of text under “DIVER’S 200m”. I sold my first SKX009, which was the “K” version, regretted it, and decided to buy another SKX.
The second time around, I went for the “J” model. My current SKX009J is not for sale. It’s seen too many adventures – and I’d be crazy to let it go. Plus, it was manufactured the same year my son was born, so I plan to give it to him one day as a “birth year” watch.
One of the best things the SKX has going for it, in my opinion, is the ergonomic case. Listed at 42mm, it doesn’t wear large. Part of this is because of the relatively short lug-to-lug distance of 46mm.
The other reason it wears smaller is because the rotating bezel, which takes away from the size of the dial. Overall, Seiko knocked the dimensions out of the park with this watch.
The case also has a visually-interesting mix of brushed and polished surfaces. This is nicer and more intricate than what you’ll find on most watches at this price level. The case is very “Seiko” in design, which includes one of its most identifiable design cues – a crown at 4:00.
Don’t let the low price tag fool you, this is a legitimate, even iconic, dive watch. It can trace its lineage all the way back to Seiko divers from 1965, and it’s also an ISO certified diver watch. In other words, it’s a genuine tool watch. One that’s produced by a manufacturer with one of the best pedigrees out there when it comes to making battle-tested dive watches.
Is the SKX-Series Still Worth It In 2022?
This is the main question I wanted to answer with this review. For me, the answering is a resounding “Yes!” But here’s the thing. I have so many sentimental moments and great trips baked into the metal of my SKX009, that I’m extremely biased.
Many brands make much “better” watches for cheaper prices, in my opinion. Check out newer Seiko divers with the 4R series movement that offers hacking and hand-winding. Or even check out some offers from Orient or many micro-brands. Alternatives are beyond the scope of this article.
That’s also assuming you can’t find a brand new SKX for around $150 or less (but I think those days are gone forever, unfortunately). The SKX still has a lot going for it, too. It just works. The 7S26 is a cheap movement, one that’s probably cheaper to replace than service, but it’s also rock-solid and capable of running trouble-free for a long time with minimal maintenance.
At the end of the day, if you want a proven, iconic dive watch from a reputable brand, the SKX is hard to beat – even to this day. It’s definitely not the best value after prices shot up following its discontinuation, though. Not everything is about value for money, either, and I’d gladly pay double what I originally did to re-acquire this watch if something were to happen to it.
If I was a new watch collector without my mind already made up about the SKX, I’d likely take a look at Seiko’s Turtle models, or even a Samurai. They’re better made watches with slightly better movements. I actually purchased a SRPB55 Samurai to replace my SKX a few years back, but guess what? I still wear the SXK009 more.