Deprecated: mb_convert_encoding(): Handling HTML entities via mbstring is deprecated; use htmlspecialchars, htmlentities, or mb_encode_numericentity/mb_decode_numericentity instead in /home4/lugsandl/public_html/wp-content/themes/acabado/functions.php on line 1987
I think Baume & Mercier is underrated as a brand, or at least overlooked for no good reason. I’ll admit, I have a soft spot for the brand, because my first “good” watch was a Baume & Mercier. Despite the fact that the brand’s watches are usually deeply discounted on the grey market and have horrible resale value, if you factor in the quality of the case finishing and attention to detail – the overall quality of watch you’re getting at that discounted price is usually a steal. Here’s three reasons why I think the brand is deeply undervalued.
Reason 1: Baume & Mercier is Old, Like Really Old
Baume & Mercier was founded in 1830 – a full 75 years before Rolex, 14 years before Breitling, 51 years before Seiko, and 45 years before Audemars Piguet. IWC would be founded 39 years later, while Longines would be founded only 2 years after. Patek Philippe would be founded 9 years after B&M. Let’s just say that the brand is very old.
Sure, there’s ancient companies like Vacheron Constantin and Blancpain (both founded in the 1700’s), but few brands are older than Baume & Mercier. It’s the sixth or seventh oldest continuously operating watch brand in the world, depending on who you ask.
The company, like brands such as Vacheron and IWC, is currently owned by Richemont group. It was originally purchased by Piaget in 1964, and you can find B&M watches from this period with Piaget movements. Piaget itself was then swallowed up by Cartier in 1988, which brought Baume & Mercier under Cartier ownership as well.
Perhaps this is why some watch aficionados think of B&M as more of a jewelry watch, or “fashion brand”. It also went through a period of producing only quartz watches, which probably adds to this (completely unfounded, in my opinion) stigma.
In 1993, the Vendôme group acquired Cartier, Piaget, and Baume & Mercier, and this eventually turned into what we now know today as the Richemont Group. Before being acquired by Cartier, Baume & Mercier was actually one of the first brands to launch a steel sports watch as well.
Reason 2: It Helped Pioneer The Steel Sports Watch
The Riviera was launched in 1973, which was Baume & Mercier’s first steel sports watch. It featured an integrated bracelet as well. B&M launched it just one year after the game-changing, Gerald Genta-designed Royal Oak was released by Audemars Piguet. Patek Philippe didn’t release the Nautilus until 1976.
B&M recently relaunched the Riviera line, which seems to be getting mixed reviews in the comment sections of watch blogs and online publications, and some downright hate on watch forums. I think this is misplaced. There’s a perception that this is a desperate move for a dying brand taking a “me too” approach to capitalize from the steel sports watch craze, and especially the Gerald Genta-designed steel sports watch craze. As previously mentioned, however, the Riviera wasn’t the first, but it was a close second to the Royal Oak; so of all the brands creating “homages” to steel sports watches with integrated bracelets right now – B&M has a legitimate claim from its actual heritage.
After pitching only the twentieth perfect game in MLB history, Roy Halladay commissioned 60 B&M Rivieras for his teammates. I guess that’s not enough to make the Riviera iconic, but it’s a cool story. The watch must be good though, because at least one of his teammates apparently still wears his.
Tissot released its very Genta-esque, 1970’s PRX model, which appears to be well-loved so far, so I don’t get the dislike for Baume & Mercier releasing an update to one of its defining models. I think that the fact B&M discontinued it in the first place was a mistake, however. Despite this, not all is lost, as the company’s relatively new in-house movements may be able to spark a flame and propel the brand forward.
Reason 3: Interesting Complications and In-House Movements At Affordable Prices
The Baumatic movement was launched in a new series of watches in 2018. Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic housed the brand’s first in-house movement, sporting 5 days of power reserve, a silicone hairspring (interestingly enough, B&M was the first Richemont brand to incorporate this technology, before having to discontinue its use because of patent issues), and a ten-year service interval. All this for under $3,000, and that’s not considering the fat discount you could get at the time in the grey market. The Clifton Baumatic was originally launched as a dress watch, lacking any frills other than time and date, but it’s since been expanded to include complications such as a moon phase.
I think this is where Baume & Mercier shines. Delivering value with interesting complications at affordable prices. Even before the in-house movements were launched, B&M was offering these complications that are generally found in watches five to ten times the price.
Conclusion
Today, I think the brand’s primary focus on dress watches, coupled with its past of producing only quartz watches, is likely what hurts its image today. Steel watches are all the rage right now, and unlike many iconic brands – Baume & Mercier doesn’t have a Submariner or Speedmaster. There’s no Navitimer or even a Portuguese. When you think of Baume & Mercier, it unfortunately doesn’t have that iconic piece in its collection that defines it. This is ironic, considering its Riviera model (which seems like a “safe” type of watch to launch today), was innovative in the early seventies, and was only the second watch of its kind – right behind the iconic Royal Oak.
Perhaps a successful relaunch of the Riviera will help alleviate some of the unfounded negative image of the brand as “boring”, or even as a “fashion” brand, as I see it described as far too often on watch forums. This is a real brand with real heritage. The brand should get more respect than it does, but it’s hard when it’s positioned as Richemont’s “entry-level” brand and its reputation, no matter how unfounded and unfair, precedes it.
Know more about Baume & Mercier and want to add to the discussion? Please post a comment below!