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When the newest Omega Speedmaster models were released with modernized co-axial movements, I was more excited about the new style bracelet than the watch itself. I said to myself: “Wow, that’s the Speedmaster bracelet I’ve been waiting for!”
I purchased my 1861-powered Speedmaster in 2018, deciding to go with the black alligator strap (the bracelet option for the classic Moonwatch just wasn’t my style). I was always thinking about how great it would be on a bracelet during the hotter months of the year, though.
As much as I love the OEM Omega gator strap, it just doesn’t vibe with the 100 degree+ days we get here where I live during summer.
So I made a trip to the local Omega boutique when I had some free time on a weekend; and after about five minutes of speaking with an Omega technician, he told me that not only was the new style bracelet for the 3861 and 3863-powered Speedmasters available for purchase as separate items, but that they also fit the old models pretty well, too. The technician undid the clasp of the brand new bracelet attached to his old-style 1861 Speedy and handed it right to me to prove it.
The first thing that jumped out at me was the way the bracelet drops straight down from the case (as opposed to the old style bracelet for the classic moonwatch, which has end-links that protrude from the case and give the watch more presence on wrist). I could also tell right away that it would be extremely comfortable just judging by the taper and the way the links conform around the wrist. I thought that if the fit was good enough for an Omega technician, then it should be good enough for me as well – and so I decided to go with the all brushed bracelet that corresponds with the hesalite version of the new Speedmaster.
An (almost) perfect match
As soon as the new style bracelet was fitted onto my classic Hesalite Moonwatch, I knew it was a keeper. The taper and lightness of the bracelet make it extremely comfortable, as well as the way the bracelet wraps itself around the wrist.
The new look transports the watch back in time, giving it a late 1960’s vibe. It instantly injects the Speedy with some of that classic Space Race-era character; a kind of charm not found in today’s day and age, at least in my opinion.
I made the switch back in May, and ever since, on the new-style bracelet it’s stayed. It’s been the perfect option for the summertime, despite not fitting 100% flush. The clasp looks awesome, too.
But there are negatives…
One thing that makes my OCD flare up the longer the bracelet’s been attached to my Speedmaster has to do with the fit of the end-links. It’s good enough, but definitely not perfect if you look close enough.
Don’t get me wrong, nobody but you will notice, but sometimes when you notice something with a watch, you just can’t unsee it. Like a small piece of dust on the dial. Sometimes it can nibble away at your sanity. Or maybe I just have issues.
It’s kind of like a Seiko diver with those classic ever-so-slight misalignment issues that Seiko is known for (SKX owners, or owners of pretty much any entry-level Seiko diver know exactly what i’m talking about). There’s something off, but as I said, only if you’re really looking for it. You can notice that the end links sit almost flush, but they don’t quite line up perfectly, so there is a little gap between the end-link and the top part of the lug.
Another perceived negative, or something I could see being an issue for some, is the lightness. It’s definitely got more of a taper and vintage feel than most modern, heavy-duty bracelets – but this is also why it’s charming, and also why it’s incredibly comfortable. Solid end-links and Omega construction also mean that comfort isn’t coming at the expense of craftsmanship and build-quality, either.
I’ve also heard/read that some people have had issues with the “sharpness” of the edges of the bracelet, but in my specific case, my bracelet doesn’t suffer from this issue. I was also able to achieve a relatively perfect fit on my wrist.
Wrapping things up
Overall, if you own a discontinued hesalite 1861 Speedmaster (like me), or even the “Sapphire Sandwich” 1863 model and don’t like the chunkier look and feel of the stock bracelet, but still want an OEM Omega bracelet, the new style is impossible to beat.
I have other watches on chunkier, modern bracelets (and I like them too), but as far as comfort, you can’t really beat a nice tapered bracelet. The Speedmaster hasn’t really changed much since the late 60’s style-wise, either, so I think the newer bracelet, with its vintage-inspired styling, suits the watch perfectly.